Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Mary Poppins Bag: Helpful Stuff and Things Part 2


I won't bore you with the details but suffice to say the move is sudden and unexpected and while we know we are moving, we still don't know where. Summer is not the time to be looking for a rental, FYI. So long story short, I've been packing and I've somehow lost sight of five yards of gray velveteen. The same gray velveteen, if you were wondering, that I intended to use for my bag, the same velveteen I need to photograph so you can see.


Seems like a good reason as any to discuss fabric choices, though this post will be lacking pics thanks to the absconding of the velvet. Maybe it's hiding from my scissors.

So fabric choices.

Have you given thought to what you're making your bag from? The sample on the Sew Fearless site looks to be made of quilting cotton and a velveteen. Quilting cotton is a perfectly acceptable choice and you'll get decent results from it. But don't limit yourself to one small section of the fabric world. Personally, that $30 dollars worth of hardware alone calls for something a wee bit more elevated than a mere quilting cotton.

Be bold! Be brave and consider . . . corduroy, denim, suede, or even leather! Lucky for you, Fabric Mart has a leather sale going on right now. Mood had a great selection of heavier weight fabrics as well. I'm also pretty partial to Fabric.com's Premier Prints. They come in all sorts of colors and, if you guessed by the name, prints. Nautical, paisley, chevrons of all colors and sizes, and all sorts.




Do you like blue? Navy isn't my favorite color but I'm not sure you'd know it from my wardrobe. I own a ton of blue. It looks good on me, coordinates with quite a bit, and is a year round color. For all of these reasons I support a navy lambskin purse or I would if Fabric Mart hadn't just sold out. Instead, I'll support a navy suede purse thanks to Mood Fabrics. Perhaps with beige textured pockets and a vivid purple lining that will make you smile each time you dig in there for that pen you could have sworn you put in there.




Or maybe you favor something more eye catching. Perhaps a bright yellow purse with black trim and a fun, animal print lining.




Don't forget the prints! This fun octopus print by Tula Pink would look lovely with denim in both ivory and dark blue.




Do you have a love for all things Elizabethan or Baroque? Look at this amazing embossed leather. If I wasn't sitting on four yards of soft rose faux leather, this one would call my name. I'm not even sure what I'd pair with it. I'm simply in awe of it's mere existence. I think I'd use the same fabric for the pockets and trim to best show off the beautiful print. And then perhaps this pretty pink and gray damask for the lining.

So many decisions! There is no end to the different combinations you can come up with. Just remember when selecting your fabrics that you want something sturdy that will hold up to a decent amount of wear. You don't want much stretch in these fabrics if at all but if you do fall in love with something a wee bit delicate, soft, or stretchy, remember that there are a ton of interfacing and interlining options to help beef up your choice. A muslin backing, a heavy weight interfacing, all of those things can turn a less than stable fabric into something that will hold up for ages.

So what about you? Do you have your fabrics yet? Have some ideas bouncing around? If I didn't mention it already, make sure you check out the home decor section of your favorite brick and mortar or fabric site. If they fabric can hold up to your butt rubbing on it for the next five years, it will stay strong while you drop it in the grass, fling it into the backseat, or shove things you totally meant to throw away in there until you can find a garbage can.

Next time we meet, we'll discuss interfacing. 

Thank you again for sticking with me through all of the delays. You guys are the best.




Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Mary Poppins Bag Sewalong: Helpful Stuff and Things Part 1






By now, you should have purchased your hardware and your pattern. But what about the other stuff, you might be wondering. What do all of these things in this pattern actually mean???





Well allow me to unveil the mystery!


Before we do that, let's talk business.

First off, I'd like to thank Ms Sew Fearless for the cottage industry license printed in her pattern. At the risk of blowing up people's spots and making enemies, let me just say that I think it's odd for pattern designers to behave as if they have the right to tell you what to do with a product you've made. I understand that confusion has arisen from the fact that even Joann's prints on the selvage that you can't use their fabric for stuff you intend to tell and uhm, no ma'am. Personally, I would prefer not to sell finished products created from someone's pattern only because I don't want to plant seeds of bad will in the sewing community. But it's a rather simple fact that if you make something, you can sell it. So kudos for that acknowledgement.


Secondly, this, as most of you know, is my first sewalong and I did not create this pattern. So you'll understand when I say that as much as I want to make this experience as simple as possible for all of you who are so kind as to sew along with me, I don't want to be giving away all of Ms Sew Fearless's secrets. My goal here to give you enough info and pictures to help you out but not so many that you don't need the pattern or her wonderful instructions. So I'll do my best and if you're still confused, leave me a comment and I'll help the best I can.

So sewing terms and techniques you'll need.

1. Basting: I think most sewists know this one. Long stitches that are easy to take out. They keep things in place, test placement, and otherwise ensure you are happy with what you're doing before you do it permanently and make yourself cry. My machine has a basting setting because I'm a lazy heifer who enjoys button pushing but if yours does not, just set your stitch length long as hell and you'll be ready to go. You could also do it by hand but 




2. Topstitch: Just what it says. You stitch on top of your seam or to the right of it or whatever so make it look all pretty and professional. If you look at the seams on your jeans, many of them are topstitched. According to the pattern, you can just use regular thread but topstitching thread which is a bit thicker, looks fabulous, imo. I'd planned to use some but I didn't find it in a color I liked, so regular thread it is.

3. Whipstitching: I hate whipstitching. Probably because it's a sewn my hand stitch and why do I have a sewing machine if I'm going to sew by hand? (Please remember I said this when it's time to sew up that Chanel-esque Marfy suit so you can point and laugh appropriately.) Despite the smack talk I do about whipstitching, it is really easy and it's pretty quick to boot. Here are some down and dirty examples so you can tell me to stop being such a damned baby.

4. Understitching: This one is sewn on the edge of your seam on the side that will be hidden close to the line of stitching you just did to make everything stay on its side the way you wish small children would on a road trip. It's also better explained via video so just go there instead of looking at me like that.


Are you with me so far?

Good! It's a pretty heavy post but I think you can do it. Are you ready to discuss the list of stuff you must acquire?

If you are an avid sewist, even a beginner one, you'll likely have the following things on hand. If you're a procrastinator, a horrible housekeeper, and a general loser of stuff, you may not know where all of these things are. Here's a list so you can spend the next 24 hours locating things you couldn't find six months ago yet no longer need because you replaced them and not being able to find the things on this list and having to replace those . . . you know, so you can find them in six months while looking for those knitting needles you could have sworn you bought.

Oh is that just me?

The list then.


  • Scissors
  • pins
  • marking pens of some sort. I prefer my trusty double sided fabric of which I have several due to the process I described above.
  • seam ripper (yes, the seam ripper. Don't worry, I have no idea how often you use the thing and you'll have no idea how many times I use the thing.)
  • ruler (yes, you do need one. Some of the pieces are given by measurement and not a piece in the pattern. Do not let this scare you. Math is not completely frightening unless letters are involved. Some of you may be giggling over this, you smart math people. I'm wishing extra passes with the seam ripper on both your houses.)

  • An iron. Oh, you don't iron? Yes, you do. Trust me, you do. If you don't, there's no point in continuing. Now if you're one of those dreadful, I don't iron people, I totally get you. I used to be there. But let me say this as gently as I can. Nothing you sew will ever look quit as nice as it could, no matter how carefully you try if you continue to hide from your iron. I pinky promise I will allow you to take short cuts where you can, I often do myself. But you can't skip ironing, okay? You just can't. If you do, I don't want to hear about it. 

  • Sewing gauge and/or measuring tape. Did I mention there's quite a bit of measuring? Because there's quite a bit of measuring. Be brave, be strong! You can do it!


So there, you're good, right?

Alrighty then.

Next up: The Materials List! I will try to post that tomorrow but it might not be until I get home from church. It's probably not a good sign that I'm starting this off with an apology but I thank you for sticking with me. We shall have bags, I swear it!


Let's do this.


Monday, June 2, 2014

The Mary Poppins Bag:




** Quick note **

Turns out I'm moving. I'm not sure when but it's only a local move so maybe I'll get lucky and keep both my hair or my sanity. This also means it's possible the sewalong could get held up at certain parts but I will try my best to keep up as I can. I hope you'll have patience with me or at least be creative if you want to leave cranky comments to convey your abject disappointment in my overall uselessness. I'm particularly fond of gifs if you've noticed so feel free to express yourself accordingly.






Now that we've finished that part, let's get to the business.


Photograph from The June Bride
First things first, this thing is a beast. My hardware arrived in the mail from The June Bride and it was only then that I realized I could probably fit a toddler in this thing. It just so happens I have a toddler so this isn't exactly a bad thing. Strollers are rather unwieldy, don't you think? Of course hanging a toddler from your clavicle isn't exactly comfortable, but I digress. I'm just not good picturing things even when provided dimensions. I had to see it in my hand first and once I did, as you can see, a toddler.




If you aren't interested in carrying around a toddler, you can resize this bag to suit your purposes. You'll just need to scare up a smaller frame. Etsy carries quite a few, even some larger ones if you have some preteens in need of handcrafted transportation. The pattern provides directions for changing the size of your bag. They seem easy enough to follow if you're willing to do the math. I hate math but I'm willing to do the math for you if you leave me a comment letting me know what size you're constructing. Otherwise, I'm going to assume you're cool with having extra room for Lindor chocolate and the occasional hard to resist bit of fabric from the remnant bin at Joann's. Just make sure you take the chocolate out of the bag before you leave it in the hot Georgia heat and go getting smooth yumminess all over your handmade creation.


Rabbit sized?

Secondly, the wallet pattern isn't included. Now maybe you read better than I do and already knew that. But I was apparently blinded by the cute pockets and irresistible shape and didn't notice. I want a wallet though so after we've turned out this magnificent bag (don't worry, it will be fabulous) I'll see about finding a pattern and continuing our little sewalong.


Tomorrow we shall discuss what you need to be all ready for my birthday. In the meantime, if you haven't ordered your hardware, please do so now. You're looking for a tubular bag frame, six d rings, and two 1 1/4in swivel clips. The ones from June Bride are a really great weight, consistent in look and feel nice in your hand. Admittedly I don't know much about d rings and swivel clips though so you may very well find something that works at your local craft store or via an online seller.

I'm getting more excited the closer we get to sew time. My bag is going to be rose faux leather and gray velveteen. I need to some help to pick a lining. I've sworn to use my stash for this but I'm dumbstruck with indecision. Regardless, I'm already convinced of my bag's awesomeness. I will keep the secret of life in its little depths and we shall never be parted from each other.












Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Maya Angelou: Phenomenal Woman and an Elegant Lady of Color





It's been a while since I featured an ELoC on here and the death of Maya Angelou seemed like the perfect time to bring back something close to my heart.




I confess I'm not much for poetry. But Maya Angelou's poem Phenomenal Woman struck a chord with me from the moment I first saw it. The words came into my life at a time when I was most unsure of myself, of my looks, of my appeal. They stuck to my soul like glue, forever solidifying all of the positive affirmations my mother ever put in my head. Here was a woman writing exactly what my mother had been telling me all my life in such an elegant, memorably way.





Maybe moms know what they are talking about after all.





I have to confess though, I do talk real loud and as a mother, I shout more than I should.

"'Cause I'm a woman

Phenomenally.

Phenomenal woman,

That's me."

Maya Angelou, 1928 - 2014


Sunday, May 25, 2014

My Love Affair with Swiss Dot Continues


When it comes to summer fabrics, there are few things better than Swiss dot. It's light and airy, breezy, and soft and it's not meant to be ironed. You could iron it to smooth things out but like linen, it will laugh in your face an hour later. This makes it the perfect fabric for a tween's special occasion dress and for the newest release by Sewaholic Patterns, the Belcarra blouse.







Pattern Description:  Tasia from Sewaholic.net described it as "a simple pullover top with subtle waist shaping and raglan sleeves." Sounds about right to me..

Pattern Sizing: Available in sizes 0-16. Based on the sizing chart, I cut an 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes indeed.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I kind of ignored them. It's a rather straight forward top that's easily made up by anyone with a bit of sewing skill.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved it! I'd like to wow you with effusive and detailed praise but again, it's a really simple, straight forward design that's explained decently. It's not exactly genius and there aren't any unique details. It's just a nice wardrobe piece.

Fabric Used: Swiss dot from Hancock's, same as my daughter's confirmation dress. The sleeves are made from the same fabric but in a melon color. There were scraps leftover from a blouse I've had in progress since the fall.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't bother with the sleeve bands because I was feeling lazy. I have yet to finish the sleeves either. But as they are cut on the bias, they won't fray. So I might leave it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Definitely. I have a number of them on my mind. I'd love to make an heirloom version. I'm trying to decide if I can turn the two piece raglan sleeve into one piece so I can insert lace there. I'd also be curious to see how it would turn out in a knit.

Conclusion: If you're looking for a simple top that will get a lot of use in your wardrobe in addition to being a quick sew that takes up very little fabric, you should really give this a try. Give it several tries as I can think of tons of variations. And look ma! No darts!







Btw, you know you are a sewing blogger when you select an outfit for your children's commencement ceremony based solely on the fact that you need pics of your newest creation to post.



Friday, May 16, 2014

My Birthday is Coming!

My little brother had pants like this.
I would imagine he wouldn't want me telling the internet that.
I would also imagine he doesn't read my blog.
So I'm probably safe.


The only thing I like better than birthdays is my birthday. I mean what's not to like? People gush and tell you happy birthday. Your facebook gets flooded with people swearing you're awesome. (hint: I am.) You get to eat your weight in cake and ice cream, wheedle your way into eating wherever you like, and generally are worshipped and adored for the day, even if you have to do it yourself.

Okay, so you have to be a year older. Big woo, guys. For real. It's no biggie. You were born. You aged. You survived. Own those years and own your cake.




But enough about fabulous, wonderful, attention seeking me, let's talk about what I want for my birthday.

I want a purse.

Are you old if you call it a purse? I'm supposed to say handbag now I think. Or maybe even just bag. Hey, it could be worse. I could be calling it a pocketbook.



I don't just want any old purse/bag/pocketbook/carrier of more stuff that can reasonably fit. I want the Mary Poppins bag complete with wallet.




Isn't it the cutest thing? Chim-chimney, chim-chimney, chim-chim-cheree!




The obvious solution here is to sew one.

And to celebrate my birthday, I'm hosting a sew along. My very first sew along.

I'm so afraid.

Would you like to join me? I can't promise you'll be able to fit a Tiffany lamp in that bad boy. But I do promise some handholding. There will be more information to come but I can tell you right now that we will begin June 9th aka the very best day of the year and the day I will be eating my weight in cake and ice cream as mentioned earlier. To get a jump start, you can read more about the pattern at Sew Fearless including a supply list which we will cover in greater detail next week.



Looks like 2014 is going to be a year of challenges whether I like it or not.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Annoyances and a Poll




There are times when I love BurdaStyle. A website offering instance gratification pattern acquisition combined with an active community of knowledgeable members is a good thing.

Other times, I think they are drunk.

Today, I think they're drunk.

A few weeks ago, they put up a poll asking which of four patterns the community might like to do as a sewalong. Immediately, my eye was drawn to this gorgeous muted periwinkle motorcycle sewn up in a beautifully textured raw silk. Be still my damned heart. Look at that thing.






The other options were interesting enough but it was the moto jacket that spoke to me. I've never sewn a moto jacket before so the idea of a sewalong is just the thing to get a little procrastinist motivated. (It's a word now. Deal with it.) So I voted and I hoped and I prayed. And wonder of wonders, the sewing world agreed with me.

I eagerly awaited further details on when the sewalong would begin as I perused the internet for the perfect buttons and zippers to suit a posh shimmery linen that just so happened to fall into my lap.

Then came the post.




Then came the disappointment.






Then came the eye twitching.





Apparently, I am hella spoiled by the blogging world because when I hear sewalong, I hear free. When Burda hears sewalong, they hear Kah CHING!





I'm still making this damned jacket, people. I'm just not paying $19.99 to do so. Oh pattern included? No. The pattern is $5.99. Oh you're going to teach me to work with silk? Yeah, I already know how to do that, bud. Mostly because a slew of bloggers taught me, for free actually. Imagine that.

Boo on you, BurdaStyle. Booo on  yooooooooou!





Or maybe I'm spoiled. IDK.

Anyway, moving on to the poll section of this post. (I promise not to charge you when the results come in. Isn't that nice of me?)

What shall I sew next? I just made Pinky a slew of new things the last few weeks and I managed to sew up my first version of Sewaholic's newest pattern, The Belcarra blouse (blog post to come soon) so I'd like to take advantage of my sewing mojo while it's still flowing. Mostly because I should be cleaning. I'm always more successful at things when I'm supposed to be doing something else.

Shall I dive into the Motorcycle jacket? (Wait until you see this linen. You will die.)

Perhaps I should get it popping on the Caroline Doll project but starting on pinky's chemise, though I'd rather wait until the linen for my chemise arrives so I can do them both together.



Shift sewn by ECDCostume


Or should I stop being such a fraidy cat and bring my serger into submission via the very lovely Burda 7059? I have a rayon slub knit in a navy print that's begging to be worn to church on Sunday.





What say you?


A Slight Change of Plans





A long, long time ago, when the world was new, I promised my daughter I would make her a regency era outfit to be worn for tea at the Davenport House, a local museum preserved in 1820's style. They host teas in March and May each year and my goal was to have us go in proper attire from the skin out.

Well it's May now and I've gotten as far as a mob cap, two muslins for stays, and a bodice for a little dress pinky has since outgrown. Yay for procrastination!





Now I could wait another year for the Davenport House opportunity to come around once again but it just so happens that my daughter has been pestering me to buy her another American Girl doll. And it just so happens that doll is the lovely 1812 historical doll, Caroline Abbot. It also so happens that pinky's birthday is rolling around much sooner than the next Davenport tea cycle and that the American Girl store in Atlanta hosts an afternoon tea of their very own.

Do you see where I'm going with this?






Clearly we need to go in full regency regalia, don't you think?




So let's revisit the Davenport idea, shall we? Originally, the idea was to create a look that fit the 1820 aesthetic. However, Caroline story is centered around the War of 1812. During war, supplies would be a bit harder to come by as would be the latest fashions. I would say reasonably, we should adjust our time frame back to 1810, if not a touch earlier. However, I'm not sure I want to go strictly historically accurate for this. I'm quite in love with the look of 1823 specifically and I don't want to change. My justification is that since we aren't visiting a location defined by a time frame, I'm just going to pull a Cartman here and keep things pretty much the same.





For a refresher, here's the painting that inspired pinky's dress. It's the pale yellow one one the left with the purple sash and bonnet.





I recently located the perfect yellow tone on tone fabric at Fabric.com. It's a lovely dotted swiss in a light goldenrod woven with tone on tone stripes and just a wee bit of metallic thread. The rest of the fabric will come from my stash. Lovely soft cotton organza for the fichu and cap, pima cotton for the chemise and petticoat, along with a silk batiste sash, a straw bonnet, and miles of ribbon, lace trim, and other fripperies.

It's a surprise so don't tell her!

And wish me luck! Not because this is difficult. I'm rather confident it can all be managed. But you know I have a procrastination problem.






No, seriously.








Sunday, May 11, 2014

I Sew Because My Mom Loves Me




"Ever since I could remember I have been in love with . . ."

That's what most people will tell you about their hobby or interest. That they've loved something so very long that they cannot recall just when they fell. It's just always been.

I love a great many things but one of my longest, enduring, widespread loves comes from my mama. Not directly, I suppose when one thinks of it. My mom doesn't sew. She reads Star Trek books, not regency era romances. She prefers tee shirts and jeans to dresses and lace. She likes a good action movie better than a period drama with corsets and crinolines. However, once upon a time, in a land far far away called Brooklyn, my mama gifted me with a set of books that sparked a lifelong connection between fabric, history, and fashion.




I'm not sure what it was that resonated the most when I devoured my copy of Samantha Saves the Day. But what I do remember was that in the back of that book, there were pictures of elegantly ladies dressed in frothy white from head to toe. 





They frolicked in the woods, flitted about country cabins, lazed indolently in little rowboats, their fingers trailing in the cool water. 




I wanted that life. I wanted those dresses. I wanted that doll.






A few years ago, when American Girl discontinued Samantha, my mother bought me one. It was quickly snatched up by my daughter. So when it came time to design something special for pinky's confirmation, it seemed only fitting my daughter should get the dress too. It also provided the perfect opportunity to finally launch myself back into the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge I managed to neglect once again. Since I've already done one blog post on the topic here, let's just skip right to the challenge details, shall we?





The Challenge: #9: Black and White

Fabric: Swiss dot from Hancocks and a variety of laces

Pattern: Sense and Sensibility's Girls 1914 Dress

Year: 1914

Notions: Swiss laces from Martha Pullen Company, 50 wt DMC broder thread from Farmhouse Fabrics, Kam Snaps from I Like Big Buttons

How historically accurate is it? While the use of the sewing machine had become widespread a number of years before, I'm pretty sure this type of work was still done by hand for a very long time. So I suppose I lose points for that. I also lose points for running out of time and sticking some snaps on there instead of a proper line of buttons. However the lines, construction, design elements, and use of all cotton fabrics make this a very good historical feel that would not be that far out of place should pinky be magically transported to a cabin in the Adirondacks just prior to the Battle of the Ardennes. I'm going to give it a 75% accuracy rating.

Hours to complete: Uhm maybe 30 I think. I kind of squeezed it all into one week.

First worn: Three Sundays ago

Total cost: Do I really have to cop to it? I don't want to be divorced! The swiss dot was about $20. Thanks to a warehouse sale at MPC, the laces probably cost about $30. Throw in the pattern, the half a bottle of Best Press I blew through, and thread, I'm going to estimate about $75.






I'll admit I'm a wee bit sad that this dress is finished. I really enjoy heirloom sewing and being the mother of a tween girl pretty much insures my days of heirloom sewing for this particular little miss are drawing to a close. I expect it will be a good while before I see a need to create this exact brand of pretty. But just as my mama passed some of her interests down to me, I look forward to seeing what kind of things my daughter pics up from me.

Mothering is full of the sweet, the nostalgic, and the wondrous.

So forgive me for being a sap and allow me a moment to thank my mom for planting seeds and encouraging them to bloom. There isn't a thing on this blog I would be doing without her. There are a lot of things however, that I'd be doing without her and none of them good so you should probably all be grateful.






Edwardian photographs were found at My Little Time Machine.