Annoyances and a Poll

There are times when I love BurdaStyle. A website offering instance gratification pattern acquisition combined with an active community of knowledgeable members is a good thing.

Other times, I think they are drunk.

Today, I think they're drunk.

A few weeks ago, they put up a poll asking which of four patterns the community might like to do as a sewalong. Immediately, my eye was drawn to this gorgeous muted periwinkle motorcycle sewn up in a beautifully textured raw silk. Be still my damned heart. Look at that thing.

The other options were interesting enough but it was the moto jacket that spoke to me. I've never sewn a moto jacket before so the idea of a sewalong is just the thing to get a little procrastinist motivated. (It's a word now. Deal with it.) So I voted and I hoped and I prayed. And wonder of wonders, the sewing world agreed with me.

I eagerly awaited further details on when the sewalong would begin as I perused the internet for the perfect buttons and zippers to suit a posh shimmery linen that just so happened to fall into my lap.

Then came the post.

Then came the disappointment.

Then came the eye twitching.

Apparently, I am hella spoiled by the blogging world because when I hear sewalong, I hear free. When Burda hears sewalong, they hear Kah CHING!

I'm still making this damned jacket, people. I'm just not paying $19.99 to do so. Oh pattern included? No. The pattern is $5.99. Oh you're going to teach me to work with silk? Yeah, I already know how to do that, bud. Mostly because a slew of bloggers taught me, for free actually. Imagine that.

Boo on you, BurdaStyle. Booo on  yooooooooou!

Or maybe I'm spoiled. IDK.

Anyway, moving on to the poll section of this post. (I promise not to charge you when the results come in. Isn't that nice of me?)

What shall I sew next? I just made Pinky a slew of new things the last few weeks and I managed to sew up my first version of Sewaholic's newest pattern, The Belcarra blouse (blog post to come soon) so I'd like to take advantage of my sewing mojo while it's still flowing. Mostly because I should be cleaning. I'm always more successful at things when I'm supposed to be doing something else.

Shall I dive into the Motorcycle jacket? (Wait until you see this linen. You will die.)

Perhaps I should get it popping on the Caroline Doll project but starting on pinky's chemise, though I'd rather wait until the linen for my chemise arrives so I can do them both together.

Shift sewn by ECDCostume

Or should I stop being such a fraidy cat and bring my serger into submission via the very lovely Burda 7059? I have a rayon slub knit in a navy print that's begging to be worn to church on Sunday.

What say you?

A Slight Change of Plans

A long, long time ago, when the world was new, I promised my daughter I would make her a regency era outfit to be worn for tea at the Davenport House, a local museum preserved in 1820's style. They host teas in March and May each year and my goal was to have us go in proper attire from the skin out.

Well it's May now and I've gotten as far as a mob cap, two muslins for stays, and a bodice for a little dress pinky has since outgrown. Yay for procrastination!

Now I could wait another year for the Davenport House opportunity to come around once again but it just so happens that my daughter has been pestering me to buy her another American Girl doll. And it just so happens that doll is the lovely 1812 historical doll, Caroline Abbot. It also so happens that pinky's birthday is rolling around much sooner than the next Davenport tea cycle and that the American Girl store in Atlanta hosts an afternoon tea of their very own.

Do you see where I'm going with this?

Clearly we need to go in full regency regalia, don't you think?

So let's revisit the Davenport idea, shall we? Originally, the idea was to create a look that fit the 1820 aesthetic. However, Caroline story is centered around the War of 1812. During war, supplies would be a bit harder to come by as would be the latest fashions. I would say reasonably, we should adjust our time frame back to 1810, if not a touch earlier. However, I'm not sure I want to go strictly historically accurate for this. I'm quite in love with the look of 1823 specifically and I don't want to change. My justification is that since we aren't visiting a location defined by a time frame, I'm just going to pull a Cartman here and keep things pretty much the same.

For a refresher, here's the painting that inspired pinky's dress. It's the pale yellow one one the left with the purple sash and bonnet.

I recently located the perfect yellow tone on tone fabric at Fabric.com. It's a lovely dotted swiss in a light goldenrod woven with tone on tone stripes and just a wee bit of metallic thread. The rest of the fabric will come from my stash. Lovely soft cotton organza for the fichu and cap, pima cotton for the chemise and petticoat, along with a silk batiste sash, a straw bonnet, and miles of ribbon, lace trim, and other fripperies.

It's a surprise so don't tell her!

And wish me luck! Not because this is difficult. I'm rather confident it can all be managed. But you know I have a procrastination problem.

No, seriously.

I Sew Because My Mom Loves Me

"Ever since I could remember I have been in love with . . ."

That's what most people will tell you about their hobby or interest. That they've loved something so very long that they cannot recall just when they fell. It's just always been.

I love a great many things but one of my longest, enduring, widespread loves comes from my mama. Not directly, I suppose when one thinks of it. My mom doesn't sew. She reads Star Trek books, not regency era romances. She prefers tee shirts and jeans to dresses and lace. She likes a good action movie better than a period drama with corsets and crinolines. However, once upon a time, in a land far far away called Brooklyn, my mama gifted me with a set of books that sparked a lifelong connection between fabric, history, and fashion.

I'm not sure what it was that resonated the most when I devoured my copy of Samantha Saves the Day. But what I do remember was that in the back of that book, there were pictures of elegantly ladies dressed in frothy white from head to toe. 

They frolicked in the woods, flitted about country cabins, lazed indolently in little rowboats, their fingers trailing in the cool water. 

I wanted that life. I wanted those dresses. I wanted that doll.

A few years ago, when American Girl discontinued Samantha, my mother bought me one. It was quickly snatched up by my daughter. So when it came time to design something special for pinky's confirmation, it seemed only fitting my daughter should get the dress too. It also provided the perfect opportunity to finally launch myself back into the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge I managed to neglect once again. Since I've already done one blog post on the topic here, let's just skip right to the challenge details, shall we?

The Challenge: #9: Black and White

Fabric: Swiss dot from Hancocks and a variety of laces

Pattern: Sense and Sensibility's Girls 1914 Dress

Year: 1914

Notions: Swiss laces from Martha Pullen Company, 50 wt DMC broder thread from Farmhouse Fabrics, Kam Snaps from I Like Big Buttons

How historically accurate is it? While the use of the sewing machine had become widespread a number of years before, I'm pretty sure this type of work was still done by hand for a very long time. So I suppose I lose points for that. I also lose points for running out of time and sticking some snaps on there instead of a proper line of buttons. However the lines, construction, design elements, and use of all cotton fabrics make this a very good historical feel that would not be that far out of place should pinky be magically transported to a cabin in the Adirondacks just prior to the Battle of the Ardennes. I'm going to give it a 75% accuracy rating.

Hours to complete: Uhm maybe 30 I think. I kind of squeezed it all into one week.

First worn: Three Sundays ago

Total cost: Do I really have to cop to it? I don't want to be divorced! The swiss dot was about $20. Thanks to a warehouse sale at MPC, the laces probably cost about $30. Throw in the pattern, the half a bottle of Best Press I blew through, and thread, I'm going to estimate about $75.

I'll admit I'm a wee bit sad that this dress is finished. I really enjoy heirloom sewing and being the mother of a tween girl pretty much insures my days of heirloom sewing for this particular little miss are drawing to a close. I expect it will be a good while before I see a need to create this exact brand of pretty. But just as my mama passed some of her interests down to me, I look forward to seeing what kind of things my daughter pics up from me.

Mothering is full of the sweet, the nostalgic, and the wondrous.

So forgive me for being a sap and allow me a moment to thank my mom for planting seeds and encouraging them to bloom. There isn't a thing on this blog I would be doing without her. There are a lot of things however, that I'd be doing without her and none of them good so you should probably all be grateful.

Edwardian photographs were found at My Little Time Machine.

A Premature Announcement

If you've been reading this blog for a while, you might notice I have a teensy problem with follow through. I start out with the best of intentions but the reality is I have sewing ADD. Projects catch my attention, I plan them out, and then once it's fully formed and I own enough to get started, my addled brain moves on like a regal tang that has realized that the tops of jellyfish are bouncy.

So I'm a little reluctant to go blathering here and yet I'm entirely too excited about this project to keep my mouth shut. I suppose my hope is that putting it out there to the universe, or at least the blogging world will keep my attention from straying.

You see, I discovered Marfy patterns a few years ago. They are an entirely too lovely line of patterns all the way from Italy. The lines are elegant, gorgeous, the styling unlike anything you'll find here in the states, and entirely devoid of seam allowances or even directions. That's right. These patterns have no directions. They are a puzzle to anyone but the most experienced of sewists. That's seamstress grade knowledge right there and I am completely lacking in such things.

I bought one right then because I'm a sucker. Despite it being a rather easy little A line skirt, it's been sitting in my stash ever since. Probably because it is an A line skirt. I mean how boring when you think about it. But I don't want to think about it. I want to think about all of the gorgeous patterns offered on the Marfy site and I want to dream about the day I will be brave experienced enough to give one of these bad boys a try.

Marfy 2751

Marfy 2410

Marfy 2268

And will you look at that, I just happened to stumble upon A Challenging Sew, a blog that's in the process of doing a Marfy sewalong. And not just any sewalong but a Marfy sewalong featuring three very free, very beautiful, perfectly coordinating patterns with all of the proper handholding one might need to throw together a perfectly coordinating Marfy suit.

See for yourself!

Le.Sigh.

I can do this, right? 

You'll make me do this, yes?

Oh goodie!

I mean, do you die?

I die. I truly, truly die.

So when to start? Everyone knows if you don't set a start date, you have no hope. Or maybe procrastinators know this. Of course a date doesn't mean you will accomplish anything but it does up your chances. Or so I've heard. That's a lot of sentences that start with O, isn't it?

YES, I'M STALLING.

Okay. I can do this. 

I, The Hot Mess, more or less, (hopefully less in this case) do so solemnly swear to embark on the wondrous journey that will be the Marfy Free Pattern Challenge. I will muslin up, use my stash, and sew one carefully crafted three piece suit with Italian flair sometime in the near future to start September 1st if not sooner. I will not allow myself to be discouraged by the fact that this arbitrarily chosen start date is also the anniversary of the beginning of WWII. Bad juju is not real. The gloriousness of Marfy Patterns is. Other people have done it as evidenced by this blog. And so can I.

I CAN DO IT!

I'm in so much trouble.

Peas Porridge Hot

During my recent sewing frenzy, I neglected my poor unfortunate garden. The peas are in desperate need of trellising, the beans in need of mulching, and I better find poles for my pole beans to climb less they wrap their graceful grasping tentacles around my onions. I'm a wee bit ashamed of myself for letting things get out of hand, but that's how we lazy people procrastinators roll.

Not all is gloom and doom, however. Things are happening out there, albeit rather slowly, as gardens tend to do. I went out there the other day to inspect my little babies and wonder of wonders, there are green, nearly edible things cropping up out there.

First up, the tomatoes. Really, I have no idea what kind they are. Grape? Cherry? Who knows? I think gophers stole the plant identification tag. We have gophers in Georgia, don't we?

If you squint really hard, you might see the baby squash at the base of, oh who am I kidding? I think that's the wrong picture of the wrong squash plant. You'll just have to trust me when I say that out there in the wilderness of The Hot Mess garden, there's a plant with some baby budding squash out there.

Is that a future ear of corn? I feel all verklempt, almost like the first time I saw an ultrasound pic of my baby. That's not weird at all.

I still only have enough peas to eat them by the hand straight off the vine. This is no great loss as far as my youngest is concerned. I think raw peas straight out of the garden might be right up there with salt water taffy and starburst on the list of things pudding likes to eat. See for yourself.

A Girl in White

Girls' 1914 Dress by Sense and Sensibility Patterns

Pattern Description: Girls' dress based on shapes and styles of the late Edwardian Era. Dress features a slightly raised waist with gathers, back closure, and has options for short puffed sleeves, capped sleeves, and long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: Pattern includes sizes 1-10

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Aside from my changes, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. But I adapted the pattern to use heirloom techniques so I didn't follow them strictly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the wide range of sizes available and the thick paper used for printing the pattern. Also, it's quite rare to find patterns like this. If you want to sew historically accurate-ish clothing for children, your primary option is to use the patterns of the era. If they aren't laid out and crisscrossed all over each other crammed into a dusty old text, they still come with the expectation that you've been sewing since you were short and can turn out a gown like Ma Ingalls before Laura's wedding. So it's nice to have historical patterns for the modern sewist.

Fabric Used: Swiss dot from Hancock's for the main body. The laces came from Martha Pullen Company, most acquired during their recent warehouse sale. I ran out of time to make buttonholes so I used lace tape from Martha Pullen Company to stabilize the edges and used Kam Snaps to close it available here.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: In addition to using heirloom techniques, I created a square neckline with mitered lace trim. I cut the cap sleeve pattern but lengthened it. I also cut a full skirt instead of one tapered toward the waist as the pattern indicated. I'd planned to taper the waist but I was headed for the homestretch and got ahead of myself. By the time it was attached, yeah, that bad boy was not going to be pulled out.

As mentioned above, I used snaps instead of buttons, again, an issue of time restraint as well as error. The pattern runs small, imo. I measured her first and chose a size based on those measurements but the fit was still rather close even without the slip. It's my fault for not doing a muslin but procrastinators do what they must. Snaps it was.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would sew it again if asked but I can't see a need for this kind of dress for pinky. But I'd definitely recommend it to others looking for a similar style with the caveat to either make a muslin or make it a size larger than the pattern indicates, perhaps even two if you want room to grow.

Conclusion: I love this dress. Can I just say what a prideful, shameful person I am? I'm supposed to be focusing on a big spiritual day for my daughter, when she affirms her faith and becomes a member of the church. All I could think though, was DAMN THAT LACE HEM LOOKS GOOD!

It's a good thing Jesus loves me.

Fresh Growing Things

"If you look at it the right way, you can see the whole world is a garden."

Frances Hodgson Burnett